If You’re Going to Valparaíso
Be sure to make plenty of alternative plans.
If you’re going to Valparaíso
On Sunday, assume nothing will be open
OK, I need lots of poetic license on that last line, but you get the gist.
After one successful day in Valparaiso and with the day dawning sunny, we had plans to go back last Sunday. We were going to see the Natural History museum and then ride an acensor to view an open air museum of commissioned murals. And so we headed out.
Day At The Museum
The museum was actually open as scheduled. Sort of. It had been damaged in the 2010 earthquake and Cecile had read that it had been closed for awhile. It was reopened, just without much of anything in the way of exhibits.
But there did appear to be an event getting ready to start, some kids and adults in native dress preparing to dance, apparently as part of a fundraiser for those affected by the fires. Se we took a seat and waited for things to start. And waited. And waited. And after 40 minutes, with dancers wandering off at a greater rate than those appearing, no sign of imminent starting, and a fairly bored group of gringos, we gave up and left. I’m sure I was great if and when it started.
Acensor or Bust
Bust it was. We headed out of the museum, up the street an around to corner to our acensor, and it was closed. Hard to say if it was permanent or Sunday related, but no problem, there was another one not too far away that took us close to where we wanted to be. And it was also closed. So we headed for number three, not anywhere near where we wanted to be, but at least it was an acensor, dammit. But couldn’t find it. Clearly Valparaiso didn’t want to be explored by us, so we headed back in the direction of the metro.
We did get to see some new parts of Valpo, and ended up on beautiful but fairly empty Avenida Brasil where we saw one old building in particular that must have been something interesting once but had no sign indicating what.
Back to the Docks
Not wanting to waste a beautiful day, we decided to head back to the fishing docks and get some lunch. Having had luck. The first two places in the row, we decided to go for number three.
Our mistake. It wasn’t horrible, but we won’t be back. Started with promise, complimentary pisco spurs and bite sized empanadas. It was downhill from there. Ordering was difficult, getting wha we ordered had some small issues, food was ok but it’s not really a salad place, even seafood salad.
No, the biggest problem was the “entertainment”. A guy walks into a restaurant… And if he’s carrying a boombox and nothing else you should head out the back. Aside from the general lack of quality there was there extreme loudness of the music in a small space. After one or two songs (you know how your mind can forget details of traumatic events? Yeah, it’s like that) and an unsuccessful attempt to get tips (it was too late just to tip him to not sing) he headed upstairs, where in defiance of all rationality and the laws of nature we actually heard applause when he finished.
Eventually we finished our meal, walked on the beach a little, and came back. Despite the failed attempt at sightseeing and mediocre lunch we ha a good time; it was an absolutely gorgeous day, we still got to see some new parts of Valpo and all five of us were together.
Here’s Cecile really enjoying the music.